The new streetwear |GQ LargeChevron Menu Close Facebook Instagram Twitter YouTube Pinterest Facebook Twitter Pinterest Facebook Instagram Twitter YouTube Pinterest Largechevron
Por Fernando Carrillo
It is clear to us that the street is the main fashion laboratory and that there is a fixation for the subcultures that have dictated to the brands what will be the next chapter in its history.Here we tell you why this obsession is due and who are the main accomplices of the new streetwear revolution.
United States, 1981.A new decade begins.The world's economic situation is unfavorable.Jimmy Carter provides his latest economic report as the leader of the American Union, while Donald Reagan prepares to initiate his period as president.At the same time, in the streets of Harlem, Queens, Staten Island and Bronx, in New York, the history of hip-hop culture is reinforced as an artistic and cultural movement, with the emergence of bands such as Beastie Boys, PublicEnemy and Run - D.M.C., the latter, responsible for starting the first conversation between music and sportswear, by revitalizing the iconic adidas superstar, originally created in 1969, just by taking them positions.Five years later, they would release the song "My Adidas", the first single from his third album, Raising Hell, which not only meant a millionaire agreement with the brand, but also managed to strengthen the concept of what they expressed through their songs: bring to the street a lifestyle that would function as a solid social expression and a anthem of youth, rebellion and freedom, which manifested through two great forces: streetwear and music.
Something similar happened at the same time on the west coast of the United States.The fury of surfThe streets of Los Angeles and San Francisco.A dialogue that respected clothing codes according to its neighborhood and made fun of fashion directed to the upper class.In 1984, Shawn Stüssy and Frank Sinatra Jr.They associated to create Stüssy, a firm focused on making clothes for street subcultures, reinterpreting and playing with logos of important fashion houses, using the two initials of the founder (SS) as the classic logo of the French house, Chanel (Chanel (DC).In an interview for The Business of Fashion, Sinatra Jr.He recalled an anecdote that happened in the late 80.
"America has always progressed through change.We have taken the opportunities that it gives us to renew ourselves and build our prosperity ", thus initiated Bill Clinton's speech, in his 1994 economic report, as president of the world's first economy.The idea of seeking success through change, came to an entire nation and was that same year as a young man, named James Jebbia, revolutionized the way of consuming the lifestyle that occurred in the streets, when opening a small store in Lafayette(Downtown Manhattan) called supreme.The construction of the brand is linked to the essence that lives in the Skateboarding culture;while incorporating art into the urban fashion culture, with collaborations with artists such as David Lynch and Damien Hirst.
The supply and demand effect has governed the way in which it is consumed and operates supreme (and any other brand of this nature).A controlled production and only five points of sale worldwide for a firm with global exhibition, position it as a desired and difficult product to obtain.If we add the influence of social networks and the scope obtained through the Instagram era, we will discover that the reason for being with which Streetwear brands emerged: that of being anthem of youth and freedom,It continues present, although today your audience is much younger, with the ability to react immediate, purchase and with a huge search for acceptance and change.
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A day before the investiture ceremony of Donald Trump, Kim Jones presented at the Palais Royal in Paris the FW17-18 collection of Louis Vuitton, making official the collaboration with the New York brand, supreme, legitimizing that high fashion is ready to receiveOfficially to which it arose from the streets, marking a new era.
More than two decades ago the subcultures opened the conversation with luxury brands;Today, these fashion houses respond to that dialogue.