The MHT tries to heal the bleeding wounds of the United States celebrating its diversity
La gala del MET (el Instituto del Traje del Museo Metropolitano de Arte) se lleva todo el protagonismo, pero no hay que olvidar lo importante: La exposición. El museo ya tiene preparadas las salas y en ellas se muestran, con orgullo, las prendas que conforman la primera exposición que se hace tras la pandemia. Se titula 'En America: Un léxico de la moda' y con ella Estados Unidos se mira el ombligo y se cura algunas heridas. "Normalmente, cuando la gente describe la moda americana, suele referirse a los principios de la ropa deportiva de diseño: simplicidad, practicidad y funcionalidad. Y el lenguaje más emocional suele reservarse para la moda europea, en particular, la alta costura. Así que queremos corregir ese desequilibrio y crear una especie de léxico moderno basado en valores, emociones y sentimientos".
Dive
Andrew Bolton, commissioner of the MET sample that this year, also celebrates the 75th anniversary of the institute."This year's theme reflects its initial mission, which is to celebrate American fashion.The exhibition is not like the previous ones, or yes.Now, with the tragedies that Pandemia has caused in the USA.UU., he appeals to memory, feelings, heart.The Met, which usually looks at Europe, now looks in its guts, and appeals to the emotions of the Americans.And he does it to build bridges with the past, shake hands with the minorities of crushed and displaced (although culturally looting their traditions and culture), supporting the less favored groups, celebrating diversity, loving the different."The idea is to create a new vocabulary around American fashion, which is more emotional".
Patchwork's quilt
The assembly occupies two floors, which welcome only designs of US creators, and shows different expressions of what we call 'Americanadas'.And there is a clear intentionality in the garments and designers chosen, since the inspiration has been an appointment of the discourse of the American political activist Jesse Jackson in the National Democratic Convention of 1984."There is a patchwork quilt that is a metaphor of America.Each garment, as seen here, has its own patch and at the same time is part of a larger quilt.And everyone has their own speech, "says Bolton, remember the movie How to make an American Quilt with Winona Ryder?
But there is more in this exhibition, and we see those 'codes of American culture' of which Europe first be laughed and now copy: the retro look of beauty competitions, the 'First Lady' style, the Hollywood glamor, theDisc fever, the influence of music stars, from Madonna to Michael Jackson, African -American culture, the power of sport, rap and television stars.And, of course, criticism of 'American dream', although sifted with humor dose.
New York wants to shine again
The organizers want to highlight that idea of their own discourse, and that is why it has called the youngest designers.They live and squeeze the present while, without realizing, they write the future."It has been an extraordinary, very inspiring collaboration, especially in the last year and a half, for the way they have responded to the pandemic, for their creativity and for the way they show.So it has been very inspiring to work with them, ”says Bolton.This exhibition can be seen from September 18 until September 5, 2022 but, as a novelty, it has a second part, 'In America: An Anthology of Fashion', which is held from May 5, 2022 until September 5,2022.The second exhibition will explore the development of American fashion presenting narratives that are related to the complex stories of these spaces.
A new style
American fashion had enormous weight in the 80s and 90s.Donna Karan and Calvin Klein redefined the closets of their countrymen, banishing bad taste and opening a new path in dress: introducing sporting clothing codes and relaxing the European glamor signed by the creators of Paris and Milan.Narciso Rodríguez and Carolina Herrera contributed that chic touch to the Manhattan style, subtracting and betting on the least is more.None looked at the history of America in search of inspiration, because they always looked over the shoulder of the Indians, Latin American immigrants, Latinos, Eastern, Africans...Until the 21st century, and it was then when the new generations did divered in history books, and they were accused of cultural appropriation.Maybe because there was no respect, only arrogance.
The gala gala and the Met Expo put the brooch at New York Fashion Week, which has also celebrated its diversity.Although, some talk about posture.Tom Ford and its vibrant urban, nocturnal and calm collection does not drink from the roots of the United States, or its cultural wealth.Drink, and much, of disc music, from Studio 54, of sports aesthetics....that, on the other hand, it is a wink different from the other history of the United States.A country that is increasingly powerful and influential, inside and outside the cabinets.